Al Covo
Close to the Arsenal, this small restaurant, decorated with 1960s paintings and Murano lamps, specializes in historical fresh fish dishes of the lagoon. The goby fish (used for the soup or served with gnocchi) is excellent, as are the scallops with pasta, and the mouth-watering chocolate cake. Alternatively, diners can follow owner Cesare Benelli's recommendations on the catch of the day. The tranquil location, professional expertise and personal touch add to the appeal of the two dining rooms. Cash only.
Campiello della Pescaria, Castello 3968
Tel: (041) 522 3812.
Fortuny Restaurant
Enjoying an intimate dinner with a loved one at the Cipriani's signature restaurant is the quintessential Venice experience and should not be missed by anyone who can afford to splash out. Feast on homemade black noodles served with scallops, clams and broccoli sauce, followed by a rack of lamb in a porcini mushroom and black truffle sauce, as the water from the lagoon laps against the quay and the lights of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Lido shimmer in the distance. A specialty is the Fortuny's first rate carpaccio, while the General Manager's favorite is the sea bass cooked in a salt crust. Lunchtime sees the Fortuny menu served by the swimming pool and an excellent value antipasti buffet from Friday to Sunday, which includes crab and lobster. Complimentary transportation on the hotel's private launch from Piazza San Marco simply adds to the glamour of it all.
Giudecca 10
Tel: (041) 520 7744.
Harry's Bar
The American Bar, made famous by Hemingway, obliges most self-respecting travelers, particularly Americans, to pay at least one visit. The Bellini, a peach, prosecco and grenadine cocktail, was invented here and is always excellent. The ever-crowded restaurant offers just 14 tables, snugly nestling beneath the exposed wooden beams and antique lamps. The house specialty, John Dory with tomato and capers, is recommended. This is a good venue for celebrity spotting, although a celebrity wallet is needed for those looking to dine in style.
Calle Vallaresso, San Marco 1323
Tel: (041) 528 5777.
Ristorante Cantina Canaletto
Tucked away in an inauspicious street not far from St Mark's Square, Ristorante Cantina Canaletto is a real treat and refreshingly free from the tourist hordes. Split into two distinctive areas, a serene dining room and a buzzing wine bar, the classically styled restaurant has beamed ceilings and an impressive array of wine bottles adorn the walls. Highlights of the menu include white polenta with lagoon shrimps, the best mortadella of Bologna made by Pasquai, grilled sea bass and grilled lobster. An excellent choice for seafood lovers is the starter platter, with eight seafood tasters. Perhaps surprisingly, the Cantina Canaletto also offers a small range of exquisite pizzas, with the Allegra (topped with cherry tomatoes, mozzarella, brie and rocket) being one of the tastiest pizzas served in Northern Italy.
Castello 5490
Tel: (041) 521 2661.
Il Sole sulla Vecia Cavana
This restaurant, owned by Stefano Monti who has Il Sole restaurants in Miami, Paris, Rio de Janeiro and Monaco, is located just a few minutes walk from the Rialto. Il Sole sulla Vecia Cavana serves Venetian and Italian cuisines with a modern twist, using fresh ingredients and delicious Adriatic fish. Try appetizing starters like smoked swordfish, carpaccio with strawberry sauce or fresh pasta filled with sea bass, peanuts and pistachio. For mains, sample salmon fillet wrapped in potato crust, served with spinach and mustard sauce, or old Venetian favorites like grilled cuttlefish and polenta.
Rio Tera' SS Apostoli 4624
Tel: (041) 528 7106.
Ai Gondolieri
This mid-sized, elegant canalside restaurant near the Peggy Guggenheim Collection specializes in fine meat and vegetable dishes. Aberdeen Angus beef and ostrich share the menu with traditional Veneto platters, such as stewed chicken with polenta. Fresh Piemontese white truffles are also a highlight in the autumn, though check prices before ordering this extravagant delicacy. The cooking is much more creative that the décor, which is tinged with 1940s style, with wood panelling and overhead fans. The quiet locale, fine wines and good service appeal to small business groups and gourmets interested in the dishes of mainland Veneto. The restaurant only serves Italian wines, and stocks around 250 labels. Closed Tuesday.
San Vio, Dorsoduro 366
Tel: (041) 528 6396.
La Terrazza Danieli
In summer, the rooftop restaurant at the luxury Hotel Danieli affords perhaps Venice's most famous view from the Riva degli Schiavoni over San Giorgio Maggiore and the lagoon. The tagliatelle with truffles, baked sea bass and tiramisu all come highly recommended, as does a sublime Adriatic seafood grill overflowing with quality white fish. The comprehensive menu manages the difficult trick of straddling traditional Venetian meat, fish and vegetable dishes and more international flavors. Their bar menu, served from 1500 to 1800, is a great way of sampling the experience without breaking the bank. Reservations are recommended throughout the season.
Riva degli Schiavoni, Castello 4196
Tel: (041) 522 6480.
Locanda Cipriani
Long a favorite with English royalty and Hollywood stars, this escape on the island of Torcello has been famous since its ‘discovery' by Ernest Hemingway. The courteous service, excellent kitchen and ample space make it ideal for business lunches or dinners. The Gritti and Portico rooms overlook the garden, which boasts al fresco seating during the warmer months. The simple yet elegant restaurant is best enjoyed in June, when the beautiful rose garden blooms and the heavenly vegetable risotto oozes with flavor. Recently, some diners have complained of falling standards, although with the Locanda Cipriani, it has always been about paying for the location and the fame factor. Try the restaurant's signature dish of beef carpaccio and John Dory 'alla Carlina'. Reservations are essential and the restaurant is closed on Tuesday.
Piazza San Fosca 29, Isola di Torcello
Tel: (041) 730 150.
Ristorante al Teatro
In the San Marco area, next to the refurbished La Fenice, this pizzeria and restaurant offers five rooms and an outdoor terrace in summer. The Sala Caccia is the most characterful of the dining areas, with an oak beamed ceiling and simple décor with white tablecloths and white flowers. The civilised surroundings are ideal for large parties on restricted budgets, with a wide menu offering value for money. The scaloppine al Fenice (seared veal cutlets served with fresh seasonal vegetables) are recommended.
Campo San Fantin, San Marco 1916
Ristorante Antico Pignolo
Hidden in the warren of allies behind St Mark's Square, Riccardo de Pietri's luxurious, roomy restaurant is ideal for large business parties and a favorite with Venetian society. The rose and pastel décor befits the distinctly regal fine dining atmosphere. Sommelier Pippo Sgarlata has the best-stocked wine cellar in Venice, designed to accompany premium Mediterranean dishes, such as prosciutto San Daniele, tagliolini with rock lobster and the vanilla and chocolate soufflé ‘Arlecchino'. Some recent reports suggest that the staff have an increasing tendency to be on the snooty side.
Calle degli Specchieri 451, San Marco
Tel: (041) 522 8123.
Al Paradiso Perduto
This noisy and chic osteria, near the Ca'd'Oro, is a popular evening haunt for Venice's students and young professionals and is often open as late as 0200. Paradiso is legendary for its raucous nights and eclectic music and owners Paolo Ellero and Elisabetta Zane have given it a bit of a boost of late. Diners can watch live bands while tucking into the large dishes of tasty pasta and surveying Venice's young and beautiful late into the evening. The rest of the menu is best described as ‘fusion' with the likes of beef fillet with walnuts and plums or lamb chops with avocado and blueberry.
Fondamenta de la Misericordia, Cannaregio 2540
Naranzaria
For buzz and location, Naranzaria is hard to beat. This fun and funky eatery is just a stone's throw from the Rialto, but is a step up both in atmosphere and quality from the area's touristy restaurants. With bright and buzzy staff and simply prepared ingredients, Naranzaria is as much a favorite with trendy Venetians as it is with savvy visitors. Options range from salted cod cooked in tomatoes, black olives and olive oil with clams, through to sushi and sashimi dishes. The wine list is equally creative and impressive. Be sure to book a table on the outside terrace with its sweeping views of the Grand Canal. Closed on Mondays.
Erbaria, San Polo 130
Tel: (041) 724 1035.
Aromi
Instantly amongst the hottest tables in town on opening at the start of summer 2007, the Aromi has far greater ambitions than most bland hotel restaurants. Take a ringside seat outside with views across to the Zattere and the cruise ship berths, and settle in for an upmarket Venetian treat. In the more than capable hands of young chef Franco Luise and bon vivant restaurant manager Lello Zerbini, the Aromi provides a palate satisfying and smooth service treat. Highlights on the menu include dishes laced with local spider crab, mantis shrimp and fresh vegetables from the Rialto Market. Creative touches include mussels and clams wrapped in sea bream with a saffron broth. The chocolate soufflé dessert is sublime.
Hilton Molino Stucky, Giudecca.
